The Anatomy of a Wedding Dress – with Kathryn’s Bridal
WRITTEN BY Anna Novak, Kathryn’s Bridal | Cover Photos by Kailee Marie Photography & Ebby L Photography
If you’re a bride-to-be, one of the most exciting shopping experiences of your life is often the day you begin the search for your wedding dress. It’s likely the most expensive garment you’ll ever purchase, one that symbolizes your love, reflects your style and will be captured in photos you and your partner will treasure forever.
A bridal gown is unlike any other piece of clothing. The construction, fabrics and details are often unfamiliar, especially for first-time shoppers. To simplify the process, we’re breaking down some of the most common terms you’ll hear (or read) when shopping for a wedding dress. Communication is key when it comes to finding your dream gown, so let’s get fluent in fashion.
ALTERATIONS
Changes made by a seamstress to create a customized fit. Examples of alterations include (but are not limited to) adjusting the hem to your heel height, creating a bustle, adding bra cups, tailoring the waistline or changing the sleeve length. Alterations are often also referred to as fittings.
APPLIQUÉ
Decorative fabrication patches, such as lace or floral motifs, intentionally sewn onto the outer layer of a dress to add texture and visual interest.
BASQUE WAIST
A seam detail which flatters the waistline of a dress, by elongating the torso and forming a deep V-shape centered below the natural waistline and above the hips.
BEADING
The artful process of strategically sewing decorative beads or embellishments, such as crystals, sequins or pearls, to a dress. Beading is often intended to define edgings and add sparkle or texture.
BONING
Vertical structures sewn into the bodice of a dress to provide support and shape. Commonly used in strapless gowns to maintain fit and help the dress stay in place.
BROCADE
A luxurious fabric featuring raised patterns or textures to add dimension, similar in effect to embossing.
BUSTLE
Hand-sewn hooks or ties added by a seamstress to the back of a dress to lift and secure a gown’s train post-ceremony. A bustle decoratively and neatly conceals the excess wedding gown fabric for easy movement throughout the reception.
CRINOLINE
A stiff, translucent fabric used inside a gown to create volume. This is the fabric most commonly found in petticoat slips.
CORSET BACK
An adjustable lace-up feature at the back of a dress that offers a highly fitted, structured and secure bodice.
EMPIRE WAISTLINE
A silhouette where the narrowest point sits just below the bust and above the natural waist.
GODETS
Triangular-shaped pieces of fabric sewn into the garment, usually below the waistline or above the hem. Used to create the look of flowing volume and add movement.
GUSSET
A piece of extra fabric sewn in tight or high-stress areas (such as under the arms) to add additional room to the fit of a dress and to prevent seams from tearing.
ILLUSION FABRIC
A sheer or semi-sheer type material that blends in with the skin. It can be used selectively on a dress to give the impression that lace is tattooed to or floating on the sleeves or bodice.
KEYHOLE BACK
An opening on the upper back of a dress to securely reveal a small amount of skin. It is often recognized by a decorative oval or diamond- shaped form.
MADE-TO-ORDER
A pre-designed wedding dress that is manufactured only once It’s ordered. This type of gown inventory is frequently seen in fine bridal salons. Modifications may be available depending on the specific designer’s flexibility.
MIKADO
A heavy fabric with a soft luster, known for holding its shape and providing structure.
OFF THE RACK
Pre-made dresses that are available in-store and ready to take home immediately.
PEPLUM WAISTLINE
A small ruffle-type fabrication at the waistline, often used to accentuate the waistline or conceal a detachable train.
RUCHING
The gathering or pleating of a soft fabric, adding dimension and interest or discreetly camouflaging wrinkles or seams.
SAMPLE SIZE
The standardized, predetermined sizes carried by bridal salons. Typically, a bridal sample sizing runs two sizes smaller than traditional street wear sizes. For example, if you usually wear a size 10 at a department store or online, you’ll probably fit into a bridal sample size 14.
SILHOUETTES
The overall shape or style of a dress. Popular silhouettes include A-line, ball gown, empire, mermaid, sheath and fit- and-flare.
TRAINS
The elegant and dramatic length of fabric extending from the back of a gown. Common types include chapel, cathedral and detachable trains.
UNDERLAY
The base layer or lining of a lace or semi-sheer dress. Underlay colors may vary from white to nude to black, depending on the look desired.
The happiest brides we’ve met are usually the ones who find their dress quickly and confidently. They arrive informed about budgets, styles, designers and features they love. Familiarize yourself with bridal gown lingo before you begin shopping and you’ll be set up for success and satisfaction.
About the Author
Anna Novak is the Marketing Manager at Kathryn’s Bridal, where she combines her love of storytelling and bridal fashion to help brides feel confident and informed throughout their dress journey. Since 2012, her mission within the boutique has been showcasing the actual brides they have had the pleasure to work with as inspiration for future brides to be. Kathryn’s Bridal has built a reputation of excellence by providing outstanding service and exquisite dresses in a welcoming environment. Under the direction of owner, Kathryn Trocki, priority is given to educating, interacting and featuring real brides in advertising and marketing.
